THREE SUMMERS AGO, I stopped in Port Renfrew during a Vancouver Island road trip with my then-11-year-old daughter. Tucked into a remote inlet on the southwestern tip of the island, the sleepy town occupies ancestral lands of the Pacheedaht First Nation, whose name translates to "children of the sea-foam." From the town's small wharf, we watched bald eagles glide through the misty sky over aptly named Snuggery Cove. Puppy-faced seals cruised waters ringed by evergreen mountains veiled in fog. But it was Port Renfrew's newly minted reputation as the Tall Tree Capital of Canada that most intrigued me. So last September, I returned to meet up with big-tree hunter and conservation photographer T.J. Watt.
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