The gorges of ghorband form a natural fortress. To get to the dugouts along the front lines, you take a road that snakes around towering crags, above a river valley of astonishing beauty. Mud-brick and stone villages cling to the hillsides, approachable only along a series of switchback paths, every turn guarded by watchful boy-soldiers. Just beyond the village of Ruyoq is the beginning of enemy territory. After a dizzying climb above the village, you come to the first of a series of sangars- emplacements carved into the scree.
展开▼