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Fashion designers as business: London

机译:时装设计师经商:伦敦

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Purpose – This paper aims to provide an insight into how fashion designer businesses work and survive in London, with an understanding of business techniques and the survival strategies of British fashion designers. Design/methodology/ approach – The initial research demonstrated a need to define “innovation” as well as recognise the approach of “creative people” in business by exploring existing literature. This was followed by a series of structured interviews with nine British Fashion Designers in London, and three with intermediaries aimed at putting the designers' activities within a business context: a fashion PR; a lawyer specialising in fashion business and a creative director of a fashion distributor. Findings – The research suggests ten survival strategies employed by fashion designers. The five fashion designers in a sustainable business all operated all of these principles. Those no longer in business operated between one and five of these principles. As designers gain experience and realise their “value“, there is evidence that they can get leverage for contractual agreements with licensors, which has led to financial growth of the designers' businesses. Strategies for diversification and consultancy, if managed without diluting design values, have also led to business growth and stability. Research limitations/implications – Further research is required to consider innovation and entrepreneurship in the different creative and cultural industries, particularly concerning issues and challenges for the creative person. Practical implications – The implications are that designers need to be quick to understand the business and wider environment in which they are operating. More published material needs to be widely available to them concerning role models and business models relevant to this unique and problematic industry. Originality/value – The value of this original research is to share experience and inform designers and practitioners of current practices.
机译:目的–本文旨在通过了解英国时装设计师的业务技巧和生存策略,来深入了解时装设计师企业如何在伦敦工作和生存。设计/方法/方法–最初的研究表明,有必要定义“创新”,并通过探索现有文献来认识“创造性人才”的业务方法。随后进行了一系列的结构化访谈,采访了伦敦的九名英国时装设计师,以及三名中介人,目的是将设计师的活动纳入商业环境:时装公关;专门从事时装业务的律师和时装经销商的创意总监。调查结果–研究提出了时装设计师采用的十种生存策略。可持续业务中的五位时装设计师都遵循了所有这些原则。那些不再从事业务的人在其中一项至五项原则之间运作。随着设计师积累经验并实现其“价值”,有证据表明他们可以利用与许可人签订的合同协议,从而导致了设计师业务的财务增长。如果在不降低设计价值的情况下进行管理,多元化和咨询战略也可以促进业务增长和稳定。研究的局限性/含意–需要进一步研究以考虑不同创意和文化产业中的创新和企业家精神,尤其是关于创意人的问题和挑战。实际含义–含义是设计人员需要快速了解他们所处的业务和更广泛的环境。需要向他们提供更多有关该独特且有问题的行业的角色模型和业务模型的出版材料。原创性/价值–这项原创研究的价值是分享经验,并向设计者和实践者介绍当前的做法。

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