Viewing the mobile body as the source of the design process

摘要

Block and clothing patterns are representations of the body. Though pattern cutting's raison d'etre is a deformable, mobile entity, this discipline has consistently opted to fit the body in the static, standing position. Despite the accomplishments of the deep-rooted paradigm, the positions assumed by the dressed body while in motion are among the factors that cause clothing pressure to increase significantly, resulting in a perception of discomfort. The aim of this study is to represent the body as a mobile entity starting with the development of a mannequin that amalgamates all body movements performed everyday. Favouring a qualitative approach, its design employed techniques are derived from self-portraiture, theoretical sampling, visual somatometry and body shape averaging. A set of blocks was then created for generic garments made of woven textiles; their 'distorted' outlines follow the contours of the mobile body, as reflected on the mannequin. Finally to validate the concept, six women tried the muslin prototypes made from the patterns in wear tests, confirming that they 'expand and shrink' as the muscles and skin do.