Kumar subha served me saffron tea in a porcelain cup, tossed another blue pine log into the woodstove and said: "When you come down to dinner, mind the leopard." Like the resident tigers and panthers in this part of the Himalayas, leopards are generally nocturnal and mostly go after farm dogs and livestock. But big cat tracks had been spotted just outside my room at the Dewachen guesthouse here in the sweeping Phobjikha Valley of western central Bhutan. Down the middle of this ancient dihedral snakes a river as glossy as mercury. Leopards be damned, I was going fishing there in the morning.
展开▼
