Poland has a president and a prime minister. But Jaroslaw Kaczynski, the leader of the nationalist Law and Justice (pis) party, is its true ruler. From party headquarters on Warsaw's Nowogrodzka, above a pool club, pis has moved Poland in a strikingly illiberal direction since coming to power in 2015. At parliamentary elections on October 13th, pis is offering voters lavish handouts, social conservatism and what Mr Kaczynski calls the fight for "Polish dignity". Liberals loathe the party's tactics and much of what it stands for, but polls suggest that pis is on track for a remarkable re-election win.
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