BUFFALOES love mud. It keeps them cool and protects their delicate skin from the sun. When the squelchy stuff is scarce they dig down to reach groundwater and make their own. The tireless churning of one herd on Lantau, the largest island in Hong Kong, has turned a parched field into a swamp full of lush green floating plants. It is a haven for insects and birds, including white egrets which perch on the buffaloes' backs. Many Hong Kongers cherish these majestic animals and the photogenic touch they add to the island's largely undeveloped wilderness. But some of the islanders would prefer to get rid of them.
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