First report of dye yielding potential and compounds of lichens; a cultural heritage of Himalayan communities, Pakistan

摘要

Lichens are well-known dye yielding organisms since ancient times. The present study investigates the dye yielding potential of nineteen lichen species belonging to eleven genera ( Flavopunctelia, Flavoparmelia, Cladonia, Parmelia, Umbilicaria, Xanthoria, Ochrolechia, Hyperphyscia, Hypogymnia, Dermatocarpon and Parmotrema ) of Himalayan region (Abbottabad) Pakistan . Wool and silk were dyed using the 3 different methods i.e. dimethyl sulphoxide (DEM), ammonia fermentation (AFM) and boiling water (BWM). Over 57 different dye tests were made on silk. Predominant color was cerise but yellow, brown, purple, green, pink and olive were produced. COSMIN software was used to detect HEX Colour codes with RBG and HSL values. These dye colors were further altered by modifying: exposure to light, temperature and subsequent additional extractions using the different method or the same one. After dying samples were tested for stability in sunlight and the action of soap, some samples were faded to some degree and some of them changed color. Most dyes obtained through the AFM and DEM method were stable while dyes from boiling water method were light stable. A correlation of dye color with lichen secondary metabolites was also attempted. Spot test results showed the presence of different lichen substances (gyrophoric, lecanoric acid, umbilicaric acids, usnic acid, atranorin, chloroatranorin, salazinic acid and parietin).