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Laboratory study of non-linear wave–wave interactions of extreme focused waves in the nearshore zone

机译:近岸区极端聚焦波非线性波浪相互作用的实验室研究

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Extreme waves play a crucial role in marine inundation hazards and coastal erosion. Prediction of non-linear wave–wave interactions is crucial in assessing the propagation of shallow water extreme waves in coastal regions. In this article, we experimentally study non-linear wave–wave interactions of large-amplitude focused wave groups propagating in a two-dimensional wave flume over a mild slope (β=1:25). The influence of the frequency spectrum and the steepness on the non-linear interactions of focused waves are examined. The generated wave trains correspond to Pierson–Moskowitz and JONSWAP (γ=3.3 or γ=7) spectra. Subsequently, we experimentally approach this problem by the use of a bispectral analysis applied on short time series, via the wavelet-based bicoherence parameter, which identifies and quantifies the phase coupling resulting from non-resonant or bound triad interactions with the peak frequency. The bispectral analysis shows that the phase coupling increases gradually and approaches?1 just prior to breaking, accordingly with the spectrum broadening and the energy increase in high-frequency components. Downstream breaking, the values of phase coupling between the peak frequency and its higher harmonics decrease drastically, and the bicoherence spectrum becomes less structured.
机译:极端波浪在海洋淹没危险和沿海侵蚀中发挥着至关重要的作用。非线性波浪相互作用的预测对于评估沿海地区浅水极端波的传播至关重要。在本文中,我们通过轻度斜坡(β= 1:25)在实验中研究了在二维波水槽中传播的大幅度聚焦波组的非线性波波相互作用。检查频谱和陡度对聚焦波的非线性相互作用的影响。产生的波动列车对应于Pierson-Moskowitz和Jonswap(γ= 3.3或γ= 7)光谱。随后,我们通过在短时间序列上使用基于小波的双振荡参数来通过使用基于小波的双谐序参数来实验地接近该问题,该方法识别和定量由与峰值频率的非谐振或结合三合会相互作用产生的相位耦合。双光谱分析表明,相位耦合逐渐增加并在断开之前Δ1接近,因此具有高频分量的光谱扩展和能量增加。下游断开,峰值频率与其更高次谐波之间的相位耦合值急剧下降,并且横穿频谱变得较小。

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