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Analytic theory of a wind-driven sea

机译:风海解析理论

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A self-sustained analytic theory of a wind-driven sea is presented. It is shown that the wave field can be separated into two ensembles: the Hasselmann sea that consists of long waves with frequencyω < ωH, ωH~ 4 ?5ωp(ωpis the frequency of the spectral peak), and the Phillips sea with shorter waves. In the Hasselmann sea, which contains up to 95 % of wave energy, a resonant nonlinear interaction dominates over generation of wave energy by wind. White-cap dissipation in the Hasselmann sea in negligibly small. The resonant interaction forms a flux of energy into the Phillips sea, which plays a role of a universal sink of energy. This theory is supported by massive numerical experiments and explains the majority of pertinent experimental facts accumulated in physical oceanography.
机译:提出了一种自给自足的风浪分析理论。结果表明,波场可以分为两个集合:哈塞尔曼海由长波组成,频率为ω<ωH,ωH〜4?5ωp(ωpis为频谱峰值的频率),而菲利普斯海则具有较短的波。在包含高达95%的波能的哈塞尔曼海中,共振的非线性相互作用在风产生的波能中占主导地位。哈塞尔曼海域的白帽耗散很小,可以忽略不计。共振相互作用形成了进入菲利普斯海的能量流,它起着普遍吸收能量的作用。这一理论得到大量数值实验的支持,并解释了物理海洋学中积累的大多数相关实验事实。

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