From the crow's nest comes the cry: "Whale, 800 meters!" Passengers on the deck of the Penomi scramble starboard. Within minutes, the ship is idling alongside a sperm whale, its massive black shape rippling the water. This may not be the sort of hunt envisioned by the Norwegian whalers who once ruled this stretch of the Arctic Ocean just off the Continental Shelf. But in tiny An-denes, population 3,600, whale-watching safaris have become the modern way to meet Moby Dick.
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