The word fat often provokes a knee-jerk reaction, but bakers know that fat is an essential ingredient in any recipe. Solid fats, such as butter or shortening, form a coating around the strands of gluten in flour, creating a soft, tender crumb. These fats can also be whipped with sugar, forming pockets of air that lighten a cake batter. Or they can be cut into flour to create flaky shards of pastry. Liquid fats, such as heavy cream and milk, serve as a moisturizer in batters. When brushed atop pastry, these fats make the dough brown and crisp. The importance of fat in a recipe is clear, but how do you choose among them?
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