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The ghosts of taste: food and the cultural politics of authenticity

机译:味道的幽灵:食物和真实性的文化政治

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摘要

We add a political culture dimension to the debate over the politics of food. Central to food politics is the cultural granting of authenticity, experienced through the conjuring of relational presences of authorship. These presences derive from the faces and the places of relationality, what we term the ghosts of taste, by which food narratives articulate claims of the authorship of food by people and environments, and thus claim of authenticity. In this paper, we trace the often-conflicting presences of authenticating ghosts in food along a prominent axis of current debate: the local versus the global. The three cases outlined here—Greek food, Thousand Island dressing, and wild rice—illustrate the recovery and suppression of the lingering spirits of both local and global faces and places in what we taste, and show the mutually interdependent consequence of culture and economics in food politics.
机译:我们在有关食物政治的辩论中增加了政治文化层面。粮食政治的中心是通过赋予作者身份的相关存在而经历的真实性的文化授予。这些存在源自关系的面孔和位置,我们称之为“品味的幽灵”,食物叙事通过这种表达来阐明人们和环境对食物的所有权的主张,因而是对真实性的主张。在本文中,我们沿着当前争论的一个突出轴点来追踪在食品中鉴定鬼魂的经常冲突的地方:本地与全球。这里概述的三个案例-希腊食物,千岛酱和野生稻-说明了我们所品尝的本地和全球面孔和地方的缠身精神的恢复和压制,并显示了文化和经济相互依存的结果。食品政治。

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