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Physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers

机译:年轻登山者对攀岩的生理反应

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摘要

Key questions regarding the training and physiological qualities required to produce an elite rock climber remain inadequately defined. Little research has been done on young climbers. The aim of this paper was to review literature on climbing alongside relevant literature characterising physiological adaptations in young athletes. Evidence‐based recommendations were sought to inform the training of young climbers. Of 200 studies on climbing, 50 were selected as being appropriate to this review, and were interpreted alongside physiological studies highlighting specific common development growth variables in young climbers. Based on injury data, climbers younger than 16 years should not participate in international bouldering competitions and intensive finger strength training is not recommended. The majority of climbing foot injuries result from wearing too small or unnaturally shaped climbing shoes. Isometric and explosive strength improvements are strongly associated with the latter stages of sexual maturation and specific ontogenetic development, while improvement in motor abilities declines. Somatotyping that might identify common physical attributes in elite climbers of any age is incomplete. Accomplished adolescent climbers can now climb identical grades and compete against elite adult climbers aged up to and >40 years. High‐intensity sports training requiring leanness in a youngster can result in altered and delayed pubertal and skeletal development, metabolic and neuroendocrine aberrations and trigger eating disorders. This should be sensitively and regularly monitored. Training should reflect efficacious exercises for a given sex and biological age.
机译:关于培养精英攀岩运动员所需的训练和生理素质的关键问题仍未得到充分界定。对年轻登山者的研究很少。本文的目的是回顾有关攀岩的文献以及表征年轻运动员生理适应性的相关文献。寻求基于证据的建议,以培训年轻的登山者。在200项攀岩研究中,有50项被选为适合本次回顾的研究,并与生理研究一起进行了解释,这些研究突出了年轻攀岩者特定的共同发展生长变量。根据伤害数据,未满16岁的登山者不应参加国际抱石比赛,也不建议进行密集的手指力量训练。大部分的攀岩脚伤是由于穿着太小或形状不自然的攀岩鞋造成的。等距和爆炸强度的提高与性成熟和特定个体发育的后期阶段密切相关,而运动能力的下降则下降。可能无法识别任何年龄段的精英登山者的常见身体特征的体型设计还不完整。有成就的青少年登山者现在可以攀登相同的坡度,并与年龄在40岁及以上的精英成年登山者竞争。要求青少年瘦身的高强度运动训练可能会导致青春期和骨骼发育改变和延迟,代谢和神经内分泌畸变并引发进食障碍。应该对此进行敏感且定期的监视。培训应反映给定性别和生物学年龄的有效锻炼。

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