近代民间服装的开衩形制与结构研究--以江南大学民间服饰传习馆相关馆藏为例

摘要

This article takes the modern folk costume stored in Jiangnan University museum of folk dress as study object, to select slit process in the folk dresses as the detailed study, and analyze the slit shape, structure and decoration process. Through the study and analysis on slit position, length, shape of edge decoration and the slit difference between straight pendulum and circular pendulum, slit structure and technology, we could conclude that most of the modern folk dress slits on both sides of clothing herm, the coat slit height is relatively close, but the contrast is bigger for slit height of Chi-Pao in different regions, and the slit edge decoration also went through a process from complexity to simplicity. Hereby we can summarize that the slit shape features and inner structure for modern folk costume finally.%以江南大学民间传习馆中的近代民间服装作为研究对象，重点选取民间服装中的开衩进行研究，分析其形制、结构与装饰工艺。通过对开衩的位置、长短、缘边装饰的形制研究，以及直摆开衩和圆摆开衩上的区别、开衩的结构与工艺等方面的研究，分析结果表明，近代民间服装多在下摆两侧缝处开衩，各个地区袄开衩高度较为近似，旗袍开衩高度反差较大，开衩缘边装饰也经历了由繁变简的过程。以此来总结归纳近代民间服装开衩的形制特点和内在结构。