Tussah silk fabric was treated with p-hydroxybenzaldehyde and nitric acid in order to achieve the purpose of dye-free coloration. Through orthogonal experiments and single factor analysis, the optimum process of dye-free coloration was, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde 5% (o. w. f) , nitric acid 2. 5% , temperature 90 ℃ , time 60 min and bath ratio 1: 30. Meanwhile, the color fastness, evenness, strength, and morphology of colored fabric were tested. The results showed that the tussah silk fabric after dye-free coloration displayed bright shade, good evenness, little fiber surface damage and loss in breaking strength, with both rubbing fastness and washing fastness rating of above 4.%利用对羟基苯甲醛和硝酸对柞蚕丝织物进行处理,从而达到无染料显色的目的.通过正交试验和单因素分析,得出柞蚕丝无染料显色的最佳工艺条件:对羟基苯甲醛用量为5%(o.w.f),硝酸质量分数为2.5%,反应温度为90 ℃,反应时间为60 min,浴比为1∶30.同时对显色后的织物色牢度、匀染性、强力以及纤维的表面形态进行测试.结果表明,显色后的柞蚕丝织物色泽鲜艳,匀染性好,纤维表面基本无损伤,其水洗、摩擦色牢度均达到4级以上,断裂强力基本没有变化.
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