To improve the current situation that the conventional wool shrink-resistant process can not meet the ecological requirements, this paper focused on the shrink-resistant finishing of gabardine and valitin by the eco-friendly combination of H2O2/cutinase/protease. The results showed that the use of cutinase obviously enhanced the shrink-resistant effect. And the shrinkage rates of gabardine and valitin after finishing were 0. 25% and 6. 5% , respectively, which met the IWS standard of machine-washable. Moreover, the tests of low temperature dye-uptake rate and alkaline solubility showed that compared with the control, the cutinase treated sample had higher dye-uptake rate and lower alkaline solubility, which suggested that cutinase could make the scales on wool surface more loose so that an action similar to orientation occurred in the scales while subsequent protease treatment was performed, thus facilitating the concentrated treatment of scales by protease and reducing the hydrolysis of woolen cortex by protease. FT-IR analysis proved that cuitnase can hydrolyse the lipids on the surface of wool scales in this combination treatment.%为改变传统羊毛防毡缩整理不符合生态要求的现状,采用H2O2/角质酶/蛋白酶全生态组合方法对华达呢和凡立丁2种羊毛织物进行防缩整理.结果表明,经H2O2预处理/角质酶处理/蛋白酶处理后,华达呢和凡立丁织物毡缩率分别为0.25％和6.5％,达到国际羊毛局机可洗标准,角质酶的使用显著地提高了防缩效果.低温染色上染速率曲线和碱溶解度测试结果表明,与无角质酶处理相比,H2O2/角质酶/蛋白酶处理后试样的上染速率更快,碱溶解度略有减少,说明角质酶可能使羊毛鳞片层更疏松,导致后续的蛋白酶处理有一种类似定向的作用,促使蛋白酶更多地集中处理鳞片层,在一定程度上减少了蛋白酶对羊毛皮质层的水解.FT-IR分析结果表明,这种组合处理中,角质酶对羊毛鳞片表面类脂物有一定的水解作用.
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