两面效应经编牛仔面料结构设计及其风格评价

摘要

针对靛蓝纱色牢度不高、贴近皮肤穿着易沾色及吸湿后皮肤有潮湿闷热感问题,同时为改善纬编牛仔面料尺寸稳定性差、线圈易脱散等缺点,以靛蓝纱和本白棉纱、异形截面和圆形截面涤纶黑丝与氨纶为原料,在四梳经编机上通过结构设计开发两面效应经编牛仔面料,使贴近皮肤的一面显露涤纶,另外一面显露棉纱.通过扫描电子显微镜对不同截面的涤纶表面进行表征,并对其拉伸性能进行比较;研究了面料的顶破性能、拉伸弹性回复性、吸湿速干性能,并利用PhabrOmeter织物风格仪对风格特征进行评价.结果表明:靛蓝纱的强力高于本白棉纱,而毛羽指数降低了17.1%;异形截面涤纶显著提高了经编牛仔织物的滴水扩散速率、芯吸高度、手感和折痕回复性.%The indigo yarns have lower color fastness, stain the skin easily and make the skin the humid feeling after moisture absorption, and the weft knitted denim is easy to ladder and has bad dimensional stability. To solve above problems, the warp knitted denim fabrics were designed with indigo and gray yarns, irregular and circle cross-section polyester black yarns, and spandex on Tricot of Karl Mayer with the four bars to let polyester close to the skin and cotton yarn appear in other side. The surface of different cross-section polyester was characterized by scanning electron microscope. The tensile properties of polyester, indigo and gray cotton yarns were tested. The bursting strength, tensile elastic resilience and moisture absorption properties were investigated. The handle of the fabric was evaluated by the PhabrOmeter. The results show that the hairiness index of indigo yarn has a reduction by 17. 1% and the strength was higher compared with the gray cotton yarn. The water absorbency ratio, vertical wicking height , handle and wrinkle recovery of the warp knitted denim fabric with irregular cross-section polyester are improved notably.