现有关于袿衣的研究多停留在对于袿衣上"纖"与"髾"的阐释中,缺乏对于袿衣起源、发展及形制演变的论述.文章通过对于文献的梳理,指出汉代袿衣源自周礼的"三翟"遗俗,并依据考古中的图像,将袿衣分为"袍制袿衣"和"襦裙制袿衣"两种.汉代流行的是"袍制袿衣",魏晋南北朝流行的是"襦裙制袿衣",袿衣形制的转变符合东汉晚期袍服式微,魏晋南北朝时期襦裙渐成主流的历史趋势.另外,文章指出顾恺之笔下的袿衣女性影响了魏晋南北朝时期袿衣图像的表现,在南北朝晚期画师们的艺术加工下,袿衣逐渐进入了神仙造像系统.%The researches about GUIYI ( a kind of female dress ) mostly focus on the explanation of "XIAN" and"SHAO", and lack discussions about GUIYI origin, development and form evolution. Based on literature review, this paper indicates that GUIYI in Han dynasty originated from Zhou ' s "SANDI ( The queen dresses In the Zhou dynasty) " custom. According to the images in Archaeology, GUIYI is divided into GUIPAO and RUQUN. GUIPAO was popular in Han dynasty, while RUQUN was popular in The Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties. The change of GUIYI style conforms to the historical trend that at the end of the Eastern Han dynasty, with the decline of GUIPAO, RUQUN system gradually became the mainstream. The article also points out that GUIYI women in GU Kaizhi' s painting influenced Guiyi images in Wei, JIN and Northern and Southern dynasties. Under the artistic transformation of the painters in the late Northern and Southern dynasties, GUIYI gradually entered the immortal statue system.
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