Eleven different kinds of cotton fabrics were chosen and 24 mechanical properties were tested by KES-FB system.Then three types of collars with different width of face & back, ranging from 2 to 4mm, were made of the 11 fabrics respectively.After that, 5 professionals were invited to evaluate the collars and choose the best collar for each fabric.And the distances from the stitch line to the outline of the best collars were measured by a vernier caliper.At last the best width of face & back of the turnover collar for each fabric were figured out.By using the method of analysis of regression, the quantitative relationship between thickness of fabric(X1) and the width of face & back(Y) was got: Y = 0.660 X1 + 2.229, and the quantitative relationship between the average warp friction coefficient (X2)and the widths of face & back( Y)was got: Y= 6.596 X2 + 1.382.The two equations can be used to predict the best width of face and back of the turnover collar.%选择翻领常用的11种棉织物面料,采用KES-FB织物风格仪测试面料的24个力学性能指标,并用这11种面料分别制作里外匀为2,3,4 mm的3种翻领,将其与原型衣片缝合.邀请5位专业人士对翻领造型打分,选出最佳造型,然后用游标卡尺对最佳造型的外轮廓线和拼缝线的距离进行测量,计算得出最佳里外匀.最后通过回归分析得到面料厚度X1与理想里外匀Y的关系式:y=0.660X1+2.229;经向平均摩擦因数X2与理想里外匀Y的关系式:y=6.596X2+1.328.这两个回归方程可用来预测翻领理想里外匀.
展开▼
