Cusp Coupled System: Waves, Currents, Sediments and Tides Self-Organize to form a Self-Maintaining Geometrical Coastal Geomorphology

摘要

Baker Beach, San Francisco, California is a popular urban beach that attracts a large number of visitors. This beach is located on the south side of the Golden Gate entrance to San Francisco Bay (Figures 1 and 2). It has a reputation of being a relatively safe beach, and for most days the surf conditions are mild. However, there are times when Baker Beach is a dangerous beach where people have drowned in the surf. Bing Quan Chung (age 77) drowned on the 20 November 2000 [1]. An unidentified boy (age 13) drowned on the 23 December 2000 [2]. Two U. C. Berkeley engineering students, Jennifer Tsai (age 20) and Kang Cheng Chiu (age 20) drowned in 1995 [3]. Elizabeth Restauro (age 9) and Norma Caguiambaga (age 32) drowned on the 27 November 1972 [4]. The drownings have been blamed on large waves breaking on the beach. However it is likely that a combination of breakers and rip currents were the cause.