Wave-current interaction in morphological change on a barred beach

摘要

Current effect on waves (CEW) is examined for formation of rip channel systems with a barotropic modeling framework. The model consists of an Eulerian phase-averaged shallow water equation based on a vortex-force formalism, WKB ray equations, and a bed evolution equation with the Soulsby-Van Rijn's total sediment flux formula. CEW acts on reducing the offshore extent of seaward rip currents through wave refraction on the currents, leading to modifying the budget of sediment flux and associated surf-zone topography. Inclusion of CEW results in shoaling rip channels, deepening offshore mounds, and elongating alongshore spacing of rip channels with normal incidence of offshore waves.