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GENERATION OF SECONDARY WAVES DUE TO WAVE PROPAGATION OVER A BAR: A FIELD INVESTIGATION

机译:由于栏上的波传播导致的二次波的产生:现场调查

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Wave transformation on a transect crossing the surf zone of a fine grained, gently sloping barred beach has been further investigated with data from a 3-element coherent bottom-mounted pressure sensor line. In particular, field evidence is given for the formation of secondary waves when a moderate long narrowband swell propagated over two consecutive ridge and runnel system in both breaking and non-breaking conditions. Analysis are mainly done in the frequency domain, including also higher spectral analysis (bicoherence). The observed spatial variation in bicoherence values in the non breaking case is surprisingly low despite the fact that significant wave decoupling occurred after the bar. This implies that the phenomenon of decoupling can not be completely ascribed to the increase in water depth. On the other hand, wave breaking appears to weaken the strength of nonlinear coupling but does not affect (or at least hardly) the energy transfer to higher frequencies.
机译:通过来自3元件相干的底部安装压力传感器线的数据进一步研究了横断细颗粒的冲浪区的横断波的波动变换。特别地,当在断裂和不破坏条件下在两个连续的脊和脉冲系统上传播的中等长窄带膨胀时,给出了次要波的现场证据。分析主要在频域中完成,包括较高的光谱分析(双相)。尽管在条形之后发生了显着的波去耦,但是在非断裂情况下的非破碎案例中的横静脉值的空间变化令人惊讶地低。这意味着去耦的现象不能完全归因于水深的增加。另一方面,似乎波破坏削弱非线性耦合的强度,但不会影响(或至少几乎不熟地)对较高频率的能量转移。

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