A boussinesq breaking wave model with vorticity

摘要

The paper descvribes a breaking wave model based on the classsicla assumptions for long,moderately nonlinear Boussinesq waves.It is shown that wave breaking can be described by accountin gfor hte effect of vorticity genrated by the breaking process.this leads to two additional terms in the momentum equation,both of which represent the enhancemtn of the momentum flux associate with the extra particle velocities found at and around the turbulent front of the breaking waves.In addiktion to the wave height decay and profile deformaiton proedicted by earlier breaker models,the present model also provides informaiton about particle velovity profiles including the undertow.Comparisons are made to measruements for these quantities.the similarities and diferences between various breaker models are also examiend and explained.