One-Dimensional Horizontal Boussinesq Model Enhanced for Non-Breaking and Breaking Waves

摘要

Based on a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of O(μ2, ε3μ2) (where ε is the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth and μ is the ratio of water depth to wave length) a numerical wave model is formulated. The model's linear dispersion is acceptably accurate to μ≌1.0, which is confirmed by comparisons between the simulated and measured time series of the regular waves propagating on a submerged bar. The moving shoreline is treated numerically by replacing the solid beach with a permeable beach. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is fulfilled by introducing an eddy term in the momentum equation to serve as the breaking wave force term to dissipate wave energy in the surf zone. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches. Comparisons of the model test results comprising spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level with experimental data are presented.