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Experimental Study of the Influence of Wave Breaking Over a Sloping Beach on the Flow Upstream of the Surf Zone

机译:倾斜海滩上的波浪破碎对冲浪区上游流动影响的实验研究

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Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) measurements of the flow induced by breaking waves over a smooth steep slope of 1/15 were performed. Five cases of incoming regular waves were tested. Upstream of wave breaking, the induced oscillatory flow was not sinusoidal in time as the wave crests became steeper and the troughs wider. The profiles of the period-mean velocity showed the existence of a return current. Outside the surf zone, the current magnitude decreases linearly with increasing distance from the free surface, but it is influenced by the parabolic nature of the surf-zone undertow just upstream of the breaking position.
机译:进行了由破裂波在1/15的平滑陡坡上引起的流动的粒子图像测速(PIV)测量。测试了五例传入的常规波。在波浪破碎的上游,随着波峰变陡和波谷变宽,诱发的振荡流在时间上不是正弦波。周期平均速度曲线表明存在返回电流。在冲浪区外部,电流强度随与自由表面的距离的增加而线性减小,但是它受到断裂位置正下方的冲浪区的抛物线特性的影响。

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