Experiments to measure waves, currents, and sediment transport rate for two breaker types, plunging and spilling, were conducted in a large-scale three-dimensional physical model. A large difference in cross-shore distribution and total sediment transport rate was found between the two breaker types. Existing predictive equations for total transport rate did not predict the data well. With the exception of the Kamphuis (1991) equation, which included a dependence on wave period, the predictive equations did not differentiate between breaker types. Sediment transport increased where dissipation was high for plunging waves, but high dissipation did not necessarily produce increased transport rates with spilling waves.
展开▼