Transmission, reflection and diffraction of solitary waves by a porous breakwater gap

摘要

This paper presents a numerial model for long wave interaction with vertically-walled porous structures in the horizontal plane. The model is suitable for weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves propagating in both the open water and porous regions. Comparisons between a solid and a porous breakwater indicate that behind the porous breakwater, either amplitude dispersion or diffraction can be the dominant transformation mechanism, depending on the characteristics of the transmitted wave. A rigorous experimental comparison of a porous breakwater gap shows that the numerial model is excellent in predicting the wave-form and phase of the transformed wave.