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Spilling breakers : applications to Favre waves and to the shoaling and the breaking of the solitary wave

机译:溢出断路器:应用于Favre波以及孤波的浅滩和破裂

摘要

A two-layer long wave approximation of the homogeneous Euler equations for a free surface flow over a rigid bottom is derived. The upper layer is turbulent and is described by depth averaged equations for the layer thickness, the average fluid velocity inside the layer, and the fluid turbulent energy. The lower layer is almost potential and can be described by Serre–Su–Gardner–Green–Naghdi equations (second order shallow water approximation with respect to the parameter H/L where H is a characteristic water depth, and L is a characteristic wave length). The interaction between the layers is due to the turbulent mixing. The dynamics of the interface separating two layers is governed by the turbulent energy of the upper layer. Stationary supercritical solutions to this model are first constructed , containing, in particular, a local subcritical zone at the forward slope of the wave. Such a local subcritical zone corresponds to an intense increasing of a turbulent layer thickness and can thus be associated with the spilling breaker formation. Non-stationary model was then numerically solved and compared with experimental data for the following two problems. The first one is the study of surface waves resulting from the interaction of a uniform free surface fluid flow with an immobile wall ('the water hammer problem with a free surface'). These waves are sometimes called 'Favre waves' in homage to Henry Favre and his contribution to the study of this phenomena. When the Froude number is between 1 and approximately 1.3, the undular bore appears. The turbulent energy of the flow is localized at the wave crests. The characteristics of the leading wave are in good agreement with the experimental data by Favre (1935) and Treske (1994). When the Froude number is between 1:3 and 1:4, the transition from the undular bore to the breaking (monotone) bore occurs. In the breaking bore, the turbulent energy is localized at the front of the bore. The shoaling and the breaking of the solitary wave propagating in a mild - slope (1/60) long channel (300 m) was then studied. Comparisonwith the experimental data by Hsiao et.al. (2008) show a very good agreement of the wave profile evolution.
机译:推导了在刚性底部上自由表面流动的均质Euler方程的两层长波近似。上层是湍流的,并由深度平均方程式描述,该方程式包括层厚度,层内部的平均流体速度和流体湍流能量。下层几乎是潜在的,可以用Serre–Su–Gardner–Green–Naghdi方程描述(相对于参数H / L的二阶浅水近似值,其中H是特征水深,L是特征波长)。层之间的相互作用归因于湍流混合。分隔两层的界面动力学由上层的湍流能量决定。首先构建该模型的固定超临界解,尤其是在波的前坡处包含局部亚临界区。这样的局部亚临界区对应于湍流层厚度的强烈增加,并且因此可以与溢出的断路器形成相关联。然后对非平稳模型进行了数值求解,并将其与以下两个问题的实验数据进行了比较。第一个研究是由均匀的自由表面流体流与不活动的壁相互作用产生的表面波(“自由表面的水锤问题”)。为了向亨利·法弗(Henry Favre)及其对这一现象的研究做出的贡献,这些波动有时被称为“法夫波”。当弗洛德数在1到大约1.3之间时,会出现波浪形孔。流动的湍流能量位于波峰处。导波的特性与Favre(1935)和Treske(1994)的实验数据非常吻合。当弗洛德数在1:3和1:4之间时,会发生从波浪形孔到断裂(单调)孔的过渡。在破碎孔中,湍流能量位于孔的前端。然后研究了在缓坡(1/60)长通道(300 m)中传播的孤波的消隐和破坏。与Hsiao等人的实验数据进行比较。 (2008年)显示了波浪剖面演化的很好的一致性。

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