Wave Breaking and Wave Driven Flow in the Nearshore.

摘要

The long-term goals of this research are to understand and model the spatial and temporal transformation of wave breaking in the surf zone of natural beaches, and to predict the effect of wave breaking on the forcing of mean and oscillatory flow, sediment transport, and the evolution of large scale topography. The objectives are: 1) Improved modeling of wave breaking patterns observed in the surf zone, and the effect of wave breaking on the spatial distribution of mean flow and sediment transport. (2) Develop Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) methods to measure surface currents inside and near the surf zone from video imagery of the sea surface.