Improved Paramerizations of Triad and Quartet Interactions in Spectral Wind-Wave Models

摘要

This study was to improve parameterization for 3 and 4 wave nonlinear interactions in shallow water. Models for wave shoaling were improved and tested. The improved models have increased skill in predicting the observed evolution of wave breaking and evolution across the shoaling region and surf zone. In addition, during this study it was discovered that there is a large increase in directional spreading of waves as they propagate across the surf zone. Also, this study showed that nonlinear interactions transfer energy from swell and sea waves to higher frequency motions, where presumably dissipation takes place. Consequently, wave breaking in the surf zone includes a nonlinear energy transfer from lower-frequency sea and swell to higher-frequency motions, followed by dissipation of the higher frequency motions.