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SHEILA SHEPHERD and her husband have a passion for fine food-especially when it comes from the kitchen of Biro Restaurant. The couple likes to splurge on a meal at the swanky place as often as twice a week. They love its upscale dining room with antique 19th-century chairs, but the main attraction is the gourmet European-style cuisine, made from seasonal ingredients and dished up by its chef and owner, Marcel Biro. Sometimes on weekends they dine in the candlelit wine bar downstairs, which offers a choice of more than 150 bottles, including one champagne that goes for USD20 a glass, as well as a private room with individual wine lockers for regulars who are serious oenophiles. But there's one thing that's unusual about Biro: It's in Sheboygan, Wis., the bratwurst capital of the U.S. Located next to a fire station and across the street from the local library, the restaurant has been packing them in most weekend nights since it opened a little over three years ago. Biro, a German-born master chef and host of his own PBS show, says he settled on Sheboygan because his wife, also Biro's co-owner, lived in the area-and because, as he says, "Why not?"