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Savoring 'the authentic': the emergence of a Bangladeshi cuisine in East London.

机译:品尝“地道的”:东伦敦出现了孟加拉美食。

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摘要

In Tower Hamlets, East London, Bangladeshi restaurateurs promote an emergent national cuisine through catering for Bengali customers and offering Bangladeshi options within generic Indian menus. On the basis of a short culinary tour, this article outlines the determining circumstances which enable this vigorous profiling of Bangladeshi foods and dishes. The pursuit of an "authentic" national cuisine, however, is bound up with globalization, which makes prized produce available all year round, and with the force of nostalgic recall, which restructures memories in a (mostly) soothing, romantic manner. My core argument is that restaurateurs who promote the Bangladeshi cuisine do so in order to highlight the pivotal role people from Bangladesh, Sylhet district especially, have played in the making of Britain's "Indian" restaurants. In the process, restaurateurs mobilize not only selected dishes "from home", but also nostalgic images, emotions and discourses, all of which merge to conjure up the idea of a national cuisine.
机译:在东伦敦的塔哈姆雷特(Tower Hamlets),孟加拉餐馆老板通过为孟加拉客户提供餐饮服务,并在普通印度菜单中提供孟加拉美食,从而推广了新兴的民族美食。在简短的烹饪之旅的基础上,本文概述了能够使孟加拉食品和菜品形象化的确定情况。然而,追求“地道”的民族美食与全球化(常年供应珍贵的农产品)以及怀旧的回忆之力(以(通常)舒缓,浪漫的方式重构记忆)紧密相关。我的核心观点是,推广孟加拉美食的餐馆老板这样做是为了突出孟加拉国(尤其是锡尔赫特地区)人们在英国“印度”餐厅的制作中所起的关键作用。在此过程中,餐厅老板不仅动员了“在家中”的精选菜肴,而且还调动了怀旧的形象,情感和话语,所有这些融合在一起,从而构筑了民族美食的理念。

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