Conventional wool dyeing methods are based on long times at high temperatures. These are energy intensive and can even damage the fibers, thus changing the desired fiber characteristics. In this work, enzyme pretreatment in combination with lower temperatures was used to reach exhaustion values comparable to those obtained with the standard procedure at 98 deg C. Kinetic runs carried out on wool yarn at different temperatures confirmed the possibility of obtaining more than 90% of bath exhaustion bydyeing at 85 deg C due to the pretreatment with a proteolytic enzyme. At the same temperature, without enzymatic pretreatment, just 77% of bath exhaustion can be reached. The enzyme action on the dyeing kinetics was investigated through calculation of dye absorption rate constants according to the diffusion-limited kinetic model proposed by Chrastil. Dynamometric measurements on the yarn dyed at 98 deg C showed a 25% loss of tensile strength and 50% loss of elongation, while at lower temperature the values were better even after enzyme pretreatment, in agreement with the results of scanning electron microscopy analysis. A temperature of 85 deg C with enzyme pretreatment was found to be optimal taking into account satisfactory washing, perspiration andlight fastness values.
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