Exploring the antioxidant potential of Helichrysum stoechas (L.) Moench phenolic compounds for cosmetic applications: chemical characterization, microencapsulation and incorporation into a moisturizer.

摘要

The present work explores the antioxidant potential of Helichrysum stoechas (L.) Moench phenolic compounds for cosmetic applications involving the following steps: chemical characterization, microencapsulation and incorporation into a moisturizer. Eighteen different phenolic compounds were identified in flowering aerial parts (decoction and hydroalcoholic extract), being 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid and myricetin O-acetylhexoside the most abundant phenolic acid and flavonoid, respectively. Comparatively to the decoction form, the hydroalcoholic extract presented both higher antioxidant activity and higher phenolic content, being its lyophilized form chosen to proceed with microencapsulation studies. Double emulsion/evaporation microencapsulation technique was applied to produce polycaprolactone based microspheres containing H. stoechas hydroalcoholic extract, which were then successfully incorporated into a moisturizer. The results obtained demonstrated the antioxidant potential of H. stoechas hydroalcoholic extract and the viability of its microencapsulation, thus opening new perspectives for the exploitation of these natural phenolic extracts in applications such as the cosmetic industry.