Just past Seminyak, on Bali's south-west coast, the traffic starts to thin and hip boutiques and cafes give way to emerald green rice paddies and ancient shrines.Turn left down a dusty lane, pass a row of thirsty frangipani trees, and you'll be greeted by Maddy, a street dog turned pampered pooch. Close behind will be Michael Nalder, a former Wellington interior designer and antiques dealer, who has called Bali home for 17 years.
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