Formulating for tomorrow:UV protection in daily use skin care

摘要

This paper discusses formulating approaches to incorporating UV protection in daily use skin care products,in particular those targeted at sensitive skins.The ideal product should have an SPF of 8-15,be easy to apply and transparent on skin,incorporate mild ingredients and confer other benefits such as good moisturisation.Physical sunscreens have an advantage in this type of product due to mildness,but have been used relatively little because of whitening on skin and poor skin feel.However new developments in titanium dioxide technology mean that good transparency and sensory properties can now be achieved.Choice of emollients can be aided by considering the inherent sensory and clinical properties of the emollients.A number of suitable emollients are available which confer benefits such as moisturisation and are also good solvents for UV filters.Emulsifiers also influence skin feel and efficacy.Systems based on lamellar gel networks are advantageous due to the moisturising effects they can offer.Some novel water-in-oil emulsions can also deliver a high degree of cosmetic elegance.