Since I first set eyes on Rotterdam during her maiden visit to San Diego in April 1975, the former Holland America Line flagship has held a special place in my heart. After countless return visits, six cruises and four decades later, seeing her again in her now permanent home of Rotterdam was the realisation of a long-held dream. Two days on board gave me the chance to get reacquainted with the 'Grand Dame' in her reconfigured role as a hotel and museum. The ship now occupies a berth on the south side of the Maas River in her namesake port in the revitalised Katendrecht, once the maritime city's red light district. Restored to her original Holland America Line livery with a dove gray hull, gold band and red boot topping, Rotterdam looks just as she did when she emerged from the Rotterdam Drydock Co in 1959. Her profile (with aft-situated twin goal posts in lieu of a traditional funnel) has gradually transitioned into the epitome of a bygone seagoing grace. From her long, raked bow to her layer cake superstructure, multi-faceted structural curves, pronounced sheer and elegantly rounded cruiser spoon stern, she is the antithesis of today's squared-off, balconied mega-ships.
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