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STANDING ON CEREMONY

机译:站在仪式上

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摘要

IF YOU WANT to take the measure of a society, look not at what is celebrated but what is maligned: We find it easier to define ourselves by what we are not rather than what we are. What we are not, after all, is simple to spot—it's that guy over there, and what he's doing. So it's interesting to spend time in fashion designer Ralph Rucci's jewel box of an apartment, a terraced penthouse on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. There, a fastidious attention to luxury, detail, and carefully chosen objets d'art is so pronounced that at first glance it might seem precious, calculated, contrived. But when you sit down and breathe and feel the peace and thoughtfulness of the place, you realize how strange it is that we put a pejorative spin on words like precious, calculated, and contrived. Chez Rucci, those words are ideals to aim for. Still, American design today embraces other adjectives, ones seemingly at odds with Rucci's own outlook. Simple, unpretentious, down-to-earth style is the order of the day. But Rucci is not down-to-earth, nor does he aspire to be. Nor, however, is he some postmodern, irony-mad devotee of artifice for artifice's sake.
机译:如果您想衡量一个社会的尺度,那就不要看庆祝的东西,而要看坏的东西:我们发现,根据我们的本能而不是我们的本能来定义自己比较容易。毕竟,我们不是很容易发现-那就是那个人,他在做什么。因此,在时装设计师拉尔夫·鲁奇(Ralph Rucci)的珠宝盒中度过时光很有趣,这是曼哈顿上东区的露台顶层公寓。在这里,对奢华,细节和精心挑选的艺术品的严格关注是如此明显,以至乍看起来它似乎是珍贵的,精心设计的,人为的。但是,当您坐下来呼吸时,感受到这个地方的宁静与体贴时,您会意识到,我们对诸如珍贵,精心设计和人为之类的词语进行贬义的旋转是多么奇怪。 Chez Rucci,这些话是理想的目标。尽管如此,今天的美国设计仍然包含其他形容词,这些形容词似乎与鲁奇的观点不符。简单,朴实,朴实的风格已成为日常工作。但是鲁奇不是脚踏实地,也不是渴望成为现实。但是,他也不是出于技巧的原因而成为某种后现代的讽刺狂的奉献者。

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