HOW can you tell whether the cod on sale in your local market was legally caught from a sustainable source? For now, the short answer is that you can't. But relatively cheap, reliable genetic tests could soon give the authorities the means to identify illegally caught fish. Many key species have been overfished in some locations but still have thriving populations elsewhere. In the North Sea, for instance, cod populations have become dangerously depleted, while the Baltic is home to some well-managed cod fisheries.
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