The effects of finishing processes on the dynamic drape of wool fabrics

摘要

Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviour of eight different types of woollen fabrics each treated by three different finishing processes.Design/methodology/approach - A new apparatus was used to evaluate the dynamic drape formation process of woollen fabrics during the rotation of the samples at different speed grades of 0 (static drape), 30, 60, 90, 120, 150 and 180 rev/min for each sample. The computerised image analysis method was used to measure the drape coefficients (DCs).Findings - As a result of experiments, it was found that shearing, calendaring, pressing processes affected the drapability and drape behaviour negatively, but belt pressing treatment and decatising process improved the drapability and the drape behaviour for all fabrics. Furthermore, there is a reverse relationship between fabric weight and drape behaviour. As the fabric weight increases, DC value increases due to the increase of fabric tightness.Originality/value - To date, although many researchers have studied the static draping behaviour, the studies regarding the dynamic drape behaviour of the fabrics are quite limited to an extent. Besides, none of these studies regarding the drape behaviour have investigated the effects of different finishing processes on the drape behaviour of wool fabrics.