Suffice it to say that Castelnaudary is not a very good place to be a duck or a goose. On the other hand, this sleepy little town in the Cathar country east of Toulouse is the ne plus ultra destination for anyone who wants to go to the source of southwestern France's most emblematic dish. Bonjour, cassoulet, that ancient, hearty casserole of duck or goose (sometimes both) confit, white lingot beans, sausage, pork rind, herbs, and vegetables-leeks, carrots, or onions, depending upon the recipe.
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