Arrive by air, as foreign officials usually do, and one of the first sights on the road into Lusaka, the capital, is a huge sign affirming the government's zeal in the fight against corruption. Arrive by truck or car from Malawi, as humbler travellers may, and once your yellow-fever certificate (not necessary at other border crossings) has been checked and your visa-waiver declared in order (or not), then perhaps a surly official will eventually appear and deign to let you pass. No doubt a small tip will speed your passage. Welcome to Zambia, land of contrasts.
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