The Bar Cristal, beneath an elevated section of Rome's inner ringway, caters mostly to travellers from the nearby bus and rail stations. But by 7.30am most days, it is packed with teachers, many of whom have come from as far away as Naples. They are part of Italy's army of 150,000 casual teachers, waiting for a call to teach in a short-staffed school. Darting between classrooms, they tack together take-home pay of ?1,100 ($1,500) a month.
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