History on horseback

摘要

Shaded from the fierce sun atop a battle-dressed horse and protected by bodyguards in red and green tunics, the emir of Kano looks on serenely as wave upon wave of horsed warriors, spears and swords aloft, charge down on him, only to peel off and acclaim him at the last moment. It is the sunset climax of Kano's durbar, a gaudy show of power and tradition that locals say is unrivalled in west Africa in scale and pomp.rnDuring the day, the city's normally traffic-choked streets are taken over by thousands of medieval horsemen: soldiers, princes, hunters, musicians andrntheir liege, the emir. Dressed in embroidered robes and wearing elaborately tied turbans indicating lineage, the horsemen make a fearsome sight, giving off a heady waft of horse, mothballs and sweat.rnYoung boys in scruffy T-shirts watch from tree tops as the sons of the elite parade by. The most privileged proudly sport two horns that jut from their ceremonial turban, indicating a direct blood link with the emir.