AS TROPICAL DUSK turns to night -outside Galgamuwa, fireflies are not the only points of light around Lalith's little rice paddy, the last field in the valley waiting to be harvested. On one side, bonfires are blazing in neighbours' fields. On the other, Lalith's nephew is shining a torch out of one of the impressive tree houses that dot this part of the country. And in the middle of his paddy, seated around embers that are boiling a kettle, Lalith and friends are playing a furious card game that resembles whist.
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