IN A CONCRETE jungle of 23m people, the signs of spring are subtle. A strong breeze lofts off the Nile; policemen doff their black winter uniforms for summer white. And in Abdeen, a historic bit of downtown Cairo, the sour scent of fermented fish draws crowds of shoppers. The Shaheen family has spent more than a century selling/eseekh, grey mullet dried in the sun and submerged in salt water for 45 days. It is a unique holiday delicacy that crosses borders, amiably divides families—and kills people.
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