MODA E ARTE FASHION AND ART

摘要

Like photography, fashion has always had trouble being considered as a true form of art This issue is still being rndebated although with fa; less verve given the current art scene. In a 1985 issue of Domus, Pierre Restany wrote, "Art is like fashion: it bows to the same'model'culture, where the design is seen as an object in its own right. The art model and the fashion model are the same: the same reasons and conditions of development lie behind the object-design." He quoted Basquiat,rnSaint Laurent, Keith Haring, Cartier, David Salle and Schnabel to back up his theory, but we could simplify and dispel all doubts by merely naming Elsa Schiaparelli. Her life and her work are testimony to the fact that fashion can be true and absolute art.rnPoiret, who preceded her by a few decades, still saw fashion as decoration. But for Schiaparelli the garment was like a piece of art, a painting or a sculpture. Elsa Schiaparelli's haute couture fed off and dialogued with art. Arn1936 suit with applique drawer-like pockets was inspired by Dali's famous Venus de Milo aux tiroirs. The 1930 Mad Cap was a simple but brilliant knitted top hat that a lady could place on her head and work into a variety of forms. Inrn1937 she designed a coat in the form of a column bearing a vase of roses created by the contrasting profiles of two faces drawn byrnCocteau. Everything in Schiaparelli's collections was remarkable: the knitwear with trompe-t'oeil designs, the long evening gloves with applied metal nails, the porcelain aspirin necklace designed by Triolet, the surrealist hats with fake profiles, the sculpture-buttons, the evening dresses cut like a broken egg at the top, the cellophane scarves, the "glass cape" made of "Rhodophane", the crepe de Chine jackets lined with latex, and the chic coats inspired by the Commedia dell'Arte and sewn with plain felt patchwork. There was also the embroidery, true "works of modern art" {The New Yorter1932), mostly produced by the great Lesage in the most surprising shapes and highly unusual materials.