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EFFECT OF BEACH SLOPE AND SHOALING ON WAVE ASYMMETRY

机译:斜面和斜面对波不对称的影响

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This paper is concerned with the quantitative study of the geometrical asymmetry associated with shallow water oscillatory waves in the breaker zone. Three descriptions of wave asymmetry are defined and examined : (l) Wave vertical asymmetry i2^ Wave slope asymmetry and (3) Wave horizontal asymmetry The effects of shoaling, produced by beaches of different slope, on the wave asymmetry are examined. Six beach slopes in the range 1:4 to 1:18 were employed, and a quantitative correlation was found to exist between the wave slope asymmetry, wave horizontal asymmetry and the wave vertical asymmetry. An expression is given for the wave horizontal asymmetry based on the expression for the wave vertical asymmetry from the cnoidal wave theory. The theoretical study of wave slope asymmetry made by Biesel (1) and the results of the experimental work on the wave slope asymmetry in the present work are compared and gave a good agreement*
机译:本文涉及与破碎区浅水振荡波有关的几何不对称性的定量研究。定义并检查了三种关于波浪不对称的描述:(l)波浪垂直不对称i2 ^波浪斜率不对称和(3)波浪水平不对称考察了由不同坡度的海滩产生的浅滩对波浪不对称的影响。六个海滩坡度在1:4到1:18的范围内使用,并且发现波浪斜率不对称性,波浪水平不对称性和波浪垂直不对称性之间存在定量关系。根据来自正弦波理论的垂直波不对称表达式,给出了水平波不对称表达式。比较了Biesel(1)所做的波坡不对称性的理论研究和本工作中关于波坡不对称性的实验工作的结果,并取得了良好的共识*

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