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WAVE SETUP ON BEACHES AND IN RIVER ENTRANCES

机译:在海滩和河流入口设置波浪

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摘要

This paper investigates the phenomenon of wave setup both on beaches and within river entrances. Field measurements of the mean water surface through the Brunswick River Entrance on the North Coast of NSW, Australia and on the beach immediately south of the entrance are presented for a variety of incident wave conditions. These include wave heights up to 4m (Deepwater RMS). Data collected show very little setup in the river entrance even though wave breaking occurs across the entrance under relatively small wave conditions. At the same time significant wave setup was measured on the adjacent beach. This resulted in the super-elevation of the beach shoreline level above the mean water level of the adjacent river. This super-elevation has been observed to result in large scour holes as the water finds its way through the entrance training walls.
机译:本文研究了海滩和河流入口处的波浪形成现象。针对各种入射波情况,给出了通过澳大利亚新南威尔士州北海岸的不伦瑞克河入口和紧靠该入口以南的海滩进行的平均水面的野外测量。这些包括高达4m(深水RMS)的波高。即使在相对较小的波浪条件下,整个入口都会发生断浪,但收集到的数据表明在河口处几乎没有设置。同时,在相邻的海滩上测量到了明显的波浪形成。这导致海滩海岸线水位超高,超过相邻河流的平均水位。观察到这种超高会导致大的冲水孔,因为水会通过入口训练墙。

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